How power works in a data center: What you need to know | 220v Contactor Relay

The rest of the circuit would be built on the backside, with judicious use of surface mount electronics rated for miltemp operation (to 125C). Standard connectors from Samtec or Molex can handle the current drive easily, with no problems from the heat. Add an acrylic conformal coat on the backside, or perhaps potting the electronics, and you can make the entire module one single brick module.

If you use 24V for 120W, you only need 5 amps. That’s not much. A good mosfet shouldn’t even get warm at 5A, and you don’t need very fat wires.

I was tasked with doing this last week at work and spent considerable time researching the best/safest way to do it with consumer equipment. As far as I can see the best solution is to use one of the many 433MHz RF controlled power adapters (Watts Clever sell them for as little as $10 each) and use the same record/playback trick used to record TV remote IR signals and play them back with an Arduino. Unfortunately the project requirements changed and I didn’t get to actually implement it but I see no reason why it wouldn’t have worked. Apart from being very cheap (~20 per unit) it keeps the mains voltage completely isolated from everything else, which is particularly important from a liability perspective when you have to deliver the units to an external client.

This thing is going to get really unhappy when you plug your 15 amp motor into it and it’s embedded in your wall outlet.

My situation is a good example. I just purchased a new house and unfortunately it does not have a garage. Until I get the garage built in the Spring with a NEMA 14-50 outlet, I’m going to rough it with L1 at 120V/15A.

For maximum resolution and shooting speed, plus built-in GPS, choose the Sony A55. Give up a little speed and resolution and drop the GPS, though, and you can save upwards of $200 with the Sony A33.

You can, but it will likely not be very useful. The losses in the two transformers will be such that you won’t be able to draw much current from it and most appliances won’t work.

Any third-party trademarks or images shown here are for reference purposes only. We are not authorized to sell any items bearing such trademarks.

Dust particles are often flammable, in high densities this means they’re explosive. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dust_explosion

No, he is using a MC3041 to drive a BT137 which can handle 8 amps continuously (if properly heatsinked).

All of this, if you suppose that you are taking a full hand of cable. Got shocked a few times with AC (and DC as well) and since I was just thouching, not handling, I had no trouble to get away with it (just swearing A LOT and throwing my screwdriver through the room).

I’ve been bit in a big way only three times. Two of the three were “Trust but don’t verify” issues, and I learned from them – always verify, no matter what anyone says.