1) If not breathing, give CPR. Electrocution has pretty good recovery rates if CPR is started right away.
Actual 220V is present elsewhere, and is a convenient global average of 240V (UK,) 240/208V (NA), 230V (EU), 200V (Japan, though like NA it’s spit to 100V at normal receptacles). So if a manufacturer designs for 220V +/- 10%, it’s probably usable worldwide.
Far as I’m aware, you’re supposed to get a qualified person to fit an electric cooker. Of course, doesn’t stop me doing it. Actually more complicated than you think, it’s not just 3 terminals, there’s a dozen bits of plastic and metal in there that all need putting back in the right order.
132KV is probably safer if you don’t test it with the back of your hand. It’s not like those little neon screwdrivers are expensive. You’d think in electrician training they’d have taught him about electrocution.
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I’ll try to fix your old item if I can, but I might ask you to have a new replacement on hand just in case. Don’t skip the shopping trip because you’re banking on me being able to fix the old one. If it’s beyond repair, I’ll need to come back (and charge you) for a second visit once you get to the store instead of finishing the first time around, ultimately costing you more. You’re better off buying it and returning it if we don’t need it. Just don’t bother with these 32 home upgrades that are a waste of money.
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“OK, you hold that small bulb across that plug, I’ll connect this 9v battery across the live & neutral pins…”
Neutral is connected to Earth Ground at your electrical panel. Circuit breakers interrupt the LINE only so I’m not sure what you mean by soil resistivity and current flowing in earth ground. 500 micro amps flowing or rather, leaking through Earth ground is usually all that’s allowed by UL in cord-connected products.
This makes a lot of sense. There are many rather cheap dimmers that can drive a 500W ‘flood’ lamp, so it’s probably better to modify one of theses, and keep it outside the wall socket…
Bottom line, while the Sony A33′s EVF doesn’t entirely conquer the challenges of its genre, it goes further in the right direction than any other I’ve experienced to date. Most telling is that I now find myself reluctant to give up its benefits and return to world of purely optical viewfinders once again.
And for example the max continuous current one is “rated” for is 20A, and when I calculated the values without any heat sink, I should be able to run about 700mA. A lot of people forget to do this step before de-rating.
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