A decent quality electrician’s screwdriver will have its insulation voltage rating stamped on its handle, though the absence of a rating is not necessarily a reason not to use it. A lot of screwdrivers have first-rate insulated handles, but without a voltage rating because they are sold for general-purpose use rather than specifically electronic. When you choose a screwdriver or other tool, consider the amount of plastic it puts between you and the metal, and pick accordingly. Wooden handles may not provide adequate protection, and metal handles should be avoided at all costs.
No, it’s far more likely a combination of the strength of your flexor muscles (biceps) being stronger than your extensors (triceps), a bit of spinal reflex (sudden stretch of pain signal = withdraw limb) and observer bias; you’ve probably seen people electrocuted with 120v AC more often than 120v DC.
It must be completely fine, and I actually prefer IEC equipment (that is double-listed) for many applications, but whenever I have visited Europe, the general level of electrical safety (and the way things are wired) has often seemed a lot sketchier. Then again, they benefit from three phase just about everywhere, and their distribution network is nicely balanced. The NEC and life safety codes in general in the US seem comparatively highly conservative but I suppose I don’t particularly mind. Would your experience agree?
This makes a lot of sense. There are many rather cheap dimmers that can drive a 500W ‘flood’ lamp, so it’s probably better to modify one of theses, and keep it outside the wall socket…

The thing about the picture that worries me is the receptacles seem to be mounted below 18 inches from the floor. That is a BIG NO-NO. IF there are any gasoline cans in the garage for an old lawn-mower, etc then he has just created an explosion hazard.
My original quote is based on the project you called me in for. If I find out there’s actually a larger issue at hand, I’ll need to increase my price to match the scope of the project. I’m not ripping you off, I’m just making sure I get compensated for the extra work.
Opto-isolated TRIAC is fine and dandy, but there is no fuse, so if you overload it, you have a cooking TRIAC in your junction box …
Naturally, the instructions are a bit specific to the Pentair system he has. However, it isn’t as specialized as you might think. The project relies on the connection for a wired “spa-side remote” that most modern pool systems support. The electrical connections for these aren’t quite standard, but they are all very similar, so you have a good chance of reproducing this for your setup assuming you have a connection for one of these wired remotes.

Does matter since he runs it on DC, even so the lamination are already welded at the factory, its how the transformer is assembled.
A blocked or dirty air condenser can also degrade the performance of your unit. Make sure the vents around your air conditioner are clear of debris and the area surrounding your A/C unit provides plenty of air flow.
A good quality EVSE can cost between $300 and around $1,200. If you’re choosing a wall-mounted unit, expect to pay another several hundred dollars for installation, depending on local labor rates and permit costs.
I’ll try to fix your old item if I can, but I might ask you to have a new replacement on hand just in case. Don’t skip the shopping trip because you’re banking on me being able to fix the old one. If it’s beyond repair, I’ll need to come back (and charge you) for a second visit once you get to the store instead of finishing the first time around, ultimately costing you more. You’re better off buying it and returning it if we don’t need it. Just don’t bother with these 32 home upgrades that are a waste of money.
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