Yes, the Samsung Galaxy S9 has a headphone jack | 19mm Momentary Push Button

The first was when I was a wee, messing w/ a big 24v motor w/ weight (read: kickback voltage as it spools down && lots of amperage) and I turned it on w/ my hands on both leads…

I wrote a whole blog post dedicated to this topic, titled Hot Dimmer Switches. Check out that post for more info on this topic. If I were to write up a problem with an overloaded dimmer switch, my report comment would say something like this:

Remembers me of an incident when my mother asked me to fix the extension cord for the electric lawn mower – “please check the cable, the garden worker complained the mower does not work”. I opened the socket type end of the cable, saw a dislodged contact spring and wanted to reseat it. Then I had to feel the other end was still connected to 230VAC mains. It just did not think of thisbefore… But luckily it just stung a little. I pulled the plug and continued my work.

I’d like to say that if a circuit breaker is X-degrees over ambient, it’s a problem… but there’s just no hard and fast rule for this. I can’t say this.

PHEV is a lousy name for a class of cars, but what a good class they are. Most everything you say here could be said of my 2017 Ford C-Max Energi. It gets almost twice the MPG as my control car, a 2014 C-Max Hybrid. PHEV MPGs vary wildly according to your use patterns, but FWIW, mine is stuck on 65 cumulative MPG for its first 20,00 miles. At least half these days, I drove beyond the 20 mile EV range, and I drove over 100 miles on two or three days of the week, so I didn’t restrict my use to inflate my mileage.

The saw cuts in both directions, one person pulls, and the other slightly lifts and the saw cuts. then the other person pulls and the opposite person slightly lifts and follows the saw. Each person has a pull stroke and a less strenuous return stroke.

what really matters is whether or not your insurance company will deny your claim. if you have homebrew stuff like this then you are wasting your money on homeowner’s insurance. and of course if your homeowners insurance is invalid then the bank will get a little upset about their mortgage

With the large kossel build a mains heated bed is used. The mini kossel build used a reflective surface under the heated plate, a bit heath robinson, that it is used on the new larger build is good, heat is reflected up into the bed, lt worked well on the Mini Kossel.

You completely missed the point. The safety regulatory doesn’t change regardless of the *perception* or the *knowledge* of the person using it. If you are selling a product or publishing a design, you may ended up being liable for the end users. Even if you are the person that design and build your own stuff, plugging in something not certified pretty much voids your home insurance if it happens to be the cause of a fire etc. On the other hand if you are playing with ELV from UL etc approved/certified supplies, you are covered.

Here is something to think about; Those floor finishers were doing this back in the days when “the code” only specified two wire outlets. . These days that would make a few people nervous. No case ground for the sander….

“International” power supplies usually are specified for 100V (Japan) to 240V +/- 10%, i.e., 90-264V.

I couldn’t even find a de-rating chart or graph online for this relay. Also, many SSRs (and other devices) do not recommend the “bottom” orientation for heat sinks.