Toyota Corolla 2.0 hybrid hatchback 2019 review | 25 Amp Circuit Breaker

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A properly wired, properly functioning dimmer switch can get hot to the touch. I’ve found that a 65-degree temperature rise is normal for a maxed-out dimmer. If the ambient temperature is 71 degrees and a dimmer switch is at 136 degrees, I’d be concerned, but I wouldn’t report the temperature as a problem. I would, however, take an extra minute or two to figure out how many watts the dimmer is rated for. I’d then make sure there wasn’t too much being controlled by the dimmer.

Storage and battery. The Sony Alpha A33 offers a single flash memory card slot, but it’s compatible with two memory card standards, each with various permutations. The first is Memory Stick PRO Duo / PRO-HG Duo, Sony’s own proprietary media format. As an alternative for those who prefer more standardized media, Sony also supports three flavors of Secure Digital cards — standard SD, SDHC, and SDXC.

Yeah, the US connector system is a mess. I just installed a system that’s supposed to use a NEMA 6-20 plug, but the building services people installed a NEMA L6-20 receptacle (locking version). Same electrical specs, but they don’t mate. Back to lopping off the plug and wiring my own g-d connector… Arrgh.

First off, I would set the system up more like a safety-critical system. I would have an independent, segregated processor running the heated bed. I would have checks in the system processor and re-checks built into an independent circuit built from discrete analog/digital circuits on the system. I would use two, independent temperature sensors on the board, plus at least one thermal fuse, as well as one overload protection mechanism (most likely a fuse).

(No portable generator can power an entire house; for that you’ll need a different category of generator, called a home standby or whole-house generator, which will cost $2,500 to $4,500, plus installation, something that can run in the thousands, depending on where you live.)

Turns out my old GTX670 draws a lot more power than my new GTX1080 and, based on napkin calculations, brought my total power draw a bit too close to my 750W PSU’s limit. (200W CPU doing me no favors…)

I can’t think of any good reason for a toggle switch to get hot. If I ever found a hot toggle switch, I’d call that a fire hazard and recommend repair.

I suppose if you want, you can stick your fingers into the toaster slot to touch the exposed element and push down the slider or try to make toast while taking a bath. Otherwise, you are not making any contacts with the high voltage.

Opto-isolated TRIAC is fine and dandy, but there is no fuse, so if you overload it, you have a cooking TRIAC in your junction box …

Technically it depends on the amount of resistance, effectively proportional to the amount of the conductor the electricity is able to pass through. With AC that means the skin effect comes into play but that’s a whole other bundle of fun math. With DC it’s essentially amps times volts.

Agreed, the component is under rated from the start. If you look at a datasheet from a 25A SSR from a better company you will find something like de-rating curves which really show that as you move from the ideal conditions (20C temp, infinite heatsink) you should only use a smaller load. It is pretty easy to reach a limit of half the max load in normal conditions.