The end of Instagram as we know it is here | 19mm Momentary Push Button

It’s not that simple according to National Electrical Code (NEC) NFPA 70 for several reasons. Here are some additional factors to be considered:

Teslas are a special exception since the S, X and Roadster all took a 30% hit to efficiency when charging at 110 and really needed 190-240 to charge efficiently. Other brands like GM or Ford or Toyota seem to charge relatively efficiently at 110.

Quite often, when I was in the Air Force as a Cable Dawg, I would get zapped while doing copper cable cut splices for mission critical systems. Meaning they were left powered and came back on one by one as they were spliced. -48v DC is very tingly when it runs through a crimper and into your arm…

Aluminum wire has a lower ampacity than the same gauge copper wire, meaning aluminum must be larger to accomplish the same ampacity job as copper wire. The rule-of-thumb sizes rely on the lowest allowable temperature rating of the wire; in some cases, the circuit may have a higher ampacity if the insulation on the wire and the connection endpoints are all rated at 75°C (167°F) or 90°C (194°F).

Neutral is connected to Earth Ground at your electrical panel. Circuit breakers interrupt the LINE only so I’m not sure what you mean by soil resistivity and current flowing in earth ground. 500 micro amps flowing or rather, leaking through Earth ground is usually all that’s allowed by UL in cord-connected products.

Agreed, the component is under rated from the start. If you look at a datasheet from a 25A SSR from a better company you will find something like de-rating curves which really show that as you move from the ideal conditions (20C temp, infinite heatsink) you should only use a smaller load. It is pretty easy to reach a limit of half the max load in normal conditions.

Overall though, if everything is designed so it can’t hurt you, even in far fetched and unlikely worst case scenarios then many things would just never get made. In this case I think you could make a safe heated bed as long as you take safeguards to ensure a low probability of accidental shock. A simple enclosure around the board and the connections would more or less end the shock safety debate. Fire is another issue I guess, probably a fuse would solve that.

Snap! Didn’t even get the first instrument lit. I began to investigate. Wiring size, check. Dimmer output side breaker, still on. Go further down the line and find that the electrician had indeed taken care of it. He re-did my calculations, which at full nominal load looked like a 15 amp breaker on the input side of the dimmer would work just fine. What they didn’t realize is that when you bring an instrument or instruments (depending on the circuit) to full on, you go beyond even 20 amps for just a moment, then it goes down to about 13 amps.

Nah, they’re just creating the latest OpenSource platform as Arduino LCC, Arduino iso, Arduino Inc and Arduino & Co. fight over which is the real Shady.

This seems to me that your experiment failed due to thermal failure cased by insufficient cooling and not the part itself..You stated yourself that the part failed due to thermal expansion (insufficient cooling). But it’s still a valid experiment with valid results. And you show that it’s up to the designer (or designers) to design the entire product, which includes sufficient cooling. This is one area where home designs fail – a lot.

132KV is probably safer if you don’t test it with the back of your hand. It’s not like those little neon screwdrivers are expensive. You’d think in electrician training they’d have taught him about electrocution.

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