The buyer’s guide to electric-car charging stations | 19mm Momentary Push Button

Burst depth for the Sony A33 is seven Raw or Raw+JPEG frames, and 16 Fine or 20 Standard JPEG frames in a burst. That’s quite a bit less than the A55, which can capture twenty Raw or Raw+JPEG frames, while JPEG shooters can expect 35 Fine or 39 Standard-compression frames, but in our experience, the Sony A33 makes up for this deficit somewhat by clearing its buffer much faster. This means that although the A55 will get you more shots in a burst, the A33 will be ready to start another burst much sooner.

I neither would recommend the mains power approach (230V in Europe), the power of 120W is very well to be handled with 24V, even 36V is necessary. This 3D printers are in many cases still some kind of “hacker toy”, often are modifications or experiments done.

I actually also just added remote control to my pool, using a Sonoff 4CH pro. In my case, I have 3 devices I want to control. The pool pump itself, a water feature close to the pool, and the pool lighting. I also incorporated a flow rate sensor into the pump to make sure that the pump was not working too hard (as can happen when there is too much debris in the pool weir basket!). To drive the flow rate sensor, I tapped into the 5V supply before the 3.3V regulator, as the sensor was specced to run on 5V-24V, or thereabouts. I also inserted a level converter in between the flow rate signal and the Sonoff, even though it should be OK with 5V. I didn’t feel like taking chances.

Invensys Triconex: 冗余容错控制系统、基于三重模件冗余（TMR）结构的最现代化的容错控制器。

I liked your article. It had a lot of good pointers for others. It may be a good idea to add a red indicator between neutral and ground for the two incoming 120v lines. That way, if the hot and neutral are reversed, the light will come on.

At the time I tried to get the regulatory authority in NSW to do something about it. Zero interest. Useless idiots.

Of course you can use an extra 50Hz transformer, you do not need voltage regulation. But you need power (DC) for motors and electronics. If you have already a switching PSU (which are often even cheaper than big heavy iron/copper transformers of the same power) the extra power capability for the heater does not cost very much. Lets say you will not get the 120VA transformer for the price difference of lets say a 80W PSU vs. a 200W PSU. Also you can switch the DC with a single MOSFET.

The ones I’m talking about, they’re ubitquitous, supermarkets have them, don’t do dimming, just on/off. They seem to use a relay, from the clicking they make. I don’t think this one does dimming either right?

A blocked or dirty air condenser can also degrade the performance of your unit. Make sure the vents around your air conditioner are clear of debris and the area surrounding your A/C unit provides plenty of air flow.

L2 is absolutely useful in cold climate, specially when you don’t have a heated garage. Because a very minimalistic L1 level won’t be able to charge much while also having to keep the battery at a functional temperature, more less to preheat the car or the battery at optimal temperature.

You just described Capitalism in general ….. Every corporation I worked as an engineer for did those exact same things all the time and that was over 20 years ago before China even became a player …. American automobiles in the early 80’s are an even better example

the scariest thing I have ever seen/been around was in a fuel terminal at an oil refinery. I couldn’t figure out why we had printers, plotters, Apple II’s and monitors dropping like flies.