Kapton tape is nice but I know it peels and needs replacing eventually. You wouldn’t legally be able to sell something using just tape as a mains insulator. Glass can break. It’s a small chance, but risk should be proportionate to the danger when things fail. You might sometimes have metal screws or whatnot on the bed if you’re assembling a couple of pieces there. Best not to mess.
This is great info. In the next instalments I would love to see advice in dealing with a mains power supply and possibly a power line carrier modem on the same board or enclosure as low voltage components.
Everything else on the datasheet are useless observations only true under test conditions. A few really awesome datasheets give junction to ambient, which is a blessing if you don’t need a heatsink.
I have been hit HARD by one leg of 440v, 3 Phase power running the 2.5 HP motor of industrial manufacturing equipment. I was on a cement floor, and wearing combat boots at the time. I am sure that helped, but my right arm and shoulder hurt with a strong, but dull ache for over a week afterwards.
Steady in the dark. The Sony A33′s Handheld Twilight (HHT) mode uses multiple shots and micro-alignment to permit handheld exposures even in very dark conditions. This was a very dark bar scene, but the shot came out sharp enough for a 5×7 print. It could have used some exposure adjust and (definitely) a different white balance setting. Exposure is auto-only in HHT mode, but the similar multi-frame NR mode gives full control.
All in all, the current draw through this device was below it’s “rated” value. So either it’s a fake/poorly produced or was simply defective.
Japan is odd for another reason. The two “halves” of the country are on different frequencies. I believe the West is at 50 Hz and the East and North is 60 Hz. They have a collection of DC interconnects in the middle of the country to facilitate power sharing across this otherwise intransigent gap. Since the shutdown of Fukushima, those interconnects have been under quite a bit of strain, but that’s a whole ‘nother story.
The outlet on your wall is likely on a 15 amp circuit, so in many cases, the Smart Plug can handle as much power as the breaker or fuse can. To see what the power requirements of many electrical devices are and what type of load they create, you should visit Electrical Safety First. It’s a site based out of the UK, but the power ratings for products are the same no matter which country you use them in and the charts here are an invaluable tool.
But 110/120v A/C? that stuff is baby-play, as long as you realize that you shouldn’t use both hands, or use grounding straps, it just kinda buzzes, I’ve played around with TENS devices that had more (felt) kick than it…
So it’s – what happens to this board at 110 Volts and what are the consequences and the same for 240V, 1000V 10000V, ALL of these voltages. So it’s about what voltage will cause consequences and NOT what it is going to do at a specific assumed voltage, or more to the point ** where are the first points of failure with increasing voltage and what are the consequences.
I know a lot of people that have never heard about “makers” but I wouldn’t trust them near any mains wiring – like my own dad who has wired a circuit breaker between live and neutral. Only the ensuing BANG and my mom’s swearing and yelling from the now dark kitchen have disabused him of the idea that that is how it should be done.
> those who haven had the opportunity to study electricity or had made the effort to study it. Can’t let Darwin wipe them out when they happens to the target market… Even worse is that there are people that want to build printers on their own, but are not qualified to wire stuff to line voltage safely.
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