Portable 120V to 240V Converter; or How to Fast Charge at Your In-Law’s House | 25 Amp Circuit Breaker

Simple, do you know how expensive it would be to change from 120v to 240v? It would be an insane amount and there would be virtually no benefit.

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Of course you can use an extra 50Hz transformer, you do not need voltage regulation. But you need power (DC) for motors and electronics. If you have already a switching PSU (which are often even cheaper than big heavy iron/copper transformers of the same power) the extra power capability for the heater does not cost very much. Lets say you will not get the 120VA transformer for the price difference of lets say a 80W PSU vs. a 200W PSU. Also you can switch the DC with a single MOSFET.

That said. We routinely use run of the mill power resistors in the aluminum heatsinked package, you know the ones, they start with the letter “D”, as heaters. Ohms law doesn’t fucking care if it’s DC or AC, but a little RMS will explain that DC will do the same amount of work at a lower voltage. It doesn’t fucking matter because you can choose another resistor value and get the same thing with AC. A cheap temperature controller and a relay will suffice if you have enough thermal mass to average the temperature.

You now have a Tesla 3 correct? What is the efficiency hit by using 120 volts? It used to be a 30% hit for the S,X, Roadster, and new Rav4Ev with the Tesla drivetrain, Meanwhile 12 amps at 115 for a VOLT is quite efficient.

Sega announced on its Twitter account today that the release of its Mega Drive Mini, a miniature version of its classic console, would be delayed until sometime in 2019. The Mega Drive Mini’s release was originally slated to coincide with the console’s 30th anniversary in Japan, but its global availability was unknown. Now, the company has confirmed that the miniature console will be released as the Mega Drive Mini in Japan and Europe and as the Genesis Mini in North America.

The layout looks good too, but I’d recommend for version 2 that you increase the creepage distance between the HV and LV – particularly with regards to the LED. My own habit is to place an actual “border line” on the silkscreen. Nothing is allowed to span that line except for galvanically isolated components (isolated power supplies, opto-isolators, etc).

Let us never forget this Darwinian hero. http://www.dailymotion.com/video/xfyyii_man-electrocuted-on-the-train-india_news

Washing machines etc. have their own 10-16A fuses. 3 phase 16A power is used for larger equipment, most commonly for semi-permanent installation like oven&stove combo and electric sauna stove. Those are usually connected to star, so single element in equipment will still see 230V.

Something about your calculation here doesn’t make sense to me. 117 EV miles, and I estimate a Niro like this will get roughly 3 miles per kWh (that’s what my Volt does roughly). That means 117/3 = 39 kWh used. 39 times your cheap electricity rate is $2.54, not $7.61.

continuing akismetuser212339447″ Using a mechanical relay for your thermal control _may_ make you crazy with the clicking. If you think you can take the madness, keep an eye on the make/break current rating, and the lifetime switching at the design current. Switching current and voltage is often far less than carrying current, and electrical contact life is short compared to mechanical life (Switching at zero crossing will help). Also note that failure mode of relays is possibly contacts fused closed – design with safety in mind, and have some sort of feedback. Something like a thermal cutoff fuse?

The thing about the picture that worries me is the receptacles seem to be mounted below 18 inches from the floor. That is a BIG NO-NO. IF there are any gasoline cans in the garage for an old lawn-mower, etc then he has just created an explosion hazard.