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Some adjustment necessary. This shot turned out well at -0.3 EV, but a lot of my shots under bright conditions could really have used -0.7 EV of adjustment.

These were obviously mistakes. I would never intentionally come into contact with HT from the anode cap.

I suppose I would’ve used small contactors with auxiliary contacts as interlocking instead through some sort of arrangement, but that’s only because I have a pile of them lying around (and you would just put the wires under terminals rather than QD’s) but as I said (and you reinforced) I trusted your QD’s, particularly at these…”small” levels of current.

Here is something to think about; Those floor finishers were doing this back in the days when “the code” only specified two wire outlets. . These days that would make a few people nervous. No case ground for the sander….

One possibility (on contactors) is to have a split pole with a copper ring one one half. This is similar to a shaded pole motor. The current which is induced in the copper ring (shorted winding) is out of phase with the current in the main winding and smooths out the zero crossings. Another possibility, mostly used on valves, is to rely on the inertia of the core, here the dampening effect of the fluid also helps. The device is just not fast enough to follow the 100Hz (or 120Hz in some oversea countries) ripple.

Another potential issue of the translucent mirror design is that with an extra optical surface between the lens and the imager, flare could be increased, and image quality degraded, and indeed we’ve seen some evidence of this in predominantly dark shots containing bright point light sources, as described elsewhere in this review. There’s also another surface for dust to adhere to, and while this would be too far from the image sensor to appear as distinct specks, it could further contribute to issues with flare and reduced contrast. While manual sensor cleaning will now be a familiar process for photographers used to shooting with a digital SLR, cleaning the pellicle mirror is a total unknown. The Sony A33 provides a cleaning mode allowing the sensor to be accessed, and the pellicle mirror itself can be manually raised to facilitate this, but Sony’s documentation provides no advice on cleaning the pellicle mirror itself, simply noting that the surface of the mirror shouldn’t be touched.

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I have never seem a ‘cooked’ TRIAC or a TRIAC that is not working properly unless it has exploded.

Rob, where would anyone ever get 10,000V from? Or even 1,000? Short of lightning strikes, these voltages don’t exist in the home, or in many factories. Why do those voltages matter?

My situation is a good example. I just purchased a new house and unfortunately it does not have a garage. Until I get the garage built in the Spring with a NEMA 14-50 outlet, I’m going to rough it with L1 at 120V/15A.

Ahh, my late, late night read of the datasheet for the MOC3041M, which the schematic initially? called out but then was changed to a MOC3041 had the mains load being carried by the MOC3041/M triac, not the BT137 triac. Good catch. The triac should still be able to handle 15 amps, not just 8. And I agree, I don’t see any heatsinking.