Microsoft and Razer are working on Xbox keyboard and mouse support | Lrd12 Overload Relay

L2 is absolutely useful in cold climate, specially when you don’t have a heated garage. Because a very minimalistic L1 level won’t be able to charge much while also having to keep the battery at a functional temperature, more less to preheat the car or the battery at optimal temperature.

It doesn’t add up like that. What *does* add up is the power. At 240 volts, you pull twice as much power at 15A.

And it’s is a bad advice from ESD protection standpoint as well because nothing else, like your table where the new components are laying on, isn’t grounded so you’ve just created a potential well.

Overall though, you’re just talking about increased RMS voltage allowing more current; the more current the more burn, heart arrhythmia and neuromuscular effects.

It’s what this high technology allows that’s so exciting: real-time, phase-detect autofocus while firing off up to seven 14-megapixel frames per second in the A33, and ten 16-megapixel images per second in the A55. Few other large-sensor cameras offer frame rates this fast. DSLRs rivalling the A33′s speed are available for a little over $1,500, while only professional cameras that cost around $5,000 can match the speed of the A55 — and they’re still not capable of real-time autofocus between shots like the new Sony Alpha SLT cameras. Real-time phase-detect autofocus is also constantly available in Movie mode, something no current SLR can achieve.

If you’re buying an EV, make sure the power outlet or wall-mounted charging station will be located within close proximity to your vehicle’s connecting port. Charger cables usually run from around 15 to 25 feet in length, but that may not be sufficient or desirable if the car’s port is located on the opposite end of the garage from the available power source. You may have to have an electrician extend the service closer to your car’s charging port if that’s the case.

This is a fantastic idea: a regular PCB, that gummy conformal coat over any solder joints, solder mask is fine for insulation if you space your traces correctly, and an SSR to turn it on or off. If you have a problem with the thing getting too hot, set a maximum with a variac on the input and you’ll get slower ramps at lower voltage but lower maxima. This is not unsafe, I would think it a fine idea, and I may have a different bed material in mind too.

The focus voltage on a CRT can wake you up. The shock may not kill you, but falling backwards over a stool can break a limb. I remember working with some Japanese colleagues a long time ago on color displays for IBM mainframes. A young Japanese guy had been sent over to watch our testing and make notes. He didn’t speak a word of English, and to be honest we didn’t warn him very well that the bared card on the tube neck he was investigating was live, and then some.

I flashed Tasmota firmware onto the Sonoff, and configured GPIO2 as a counter, and I now have the whole setup reporting to Node Red, which switches the pumps on and off on schedule, or as desired. I’m quite chuffed with the result, although now I need to learn a lot more about how Node Red works!

It would require a molded socket attached to an edge with a standard IEC polarized C7 connector. No exposed conductors anywhere. Could embed a green light for powered up and a red one for hot into the socket molding.

I probably ought to be dead, or have some scars at least, but apparently I’m a very resistant person.

We recently had a chat among the Hackaday writers about how we could approach this subject. The easy way out is to be all Elf-and-Safety and join the radioactive anthrax crowd. But the conclusion we came to was that this site is a resource for hackers and makers. Some of you are going to lift the lid on boxes containing significant voltages no matter what, so we thought we’d help you do it safely rather than just listen for the distant screams.