Microsoft and Razer are working on Xbox keyboard and mouse support | 220v Contactor Relay

Xiaomi claims a screen-to-body ratio of 93.4 percent, and has cut down on the “chin” at the bottom of the display by nearly 4.5 millimeters compared to the Mi Mix 2S.

Well, it was bound to happen eventually. As far as we here at PluginCars.com know, these are the first pics ever seen of what the internal guts of an AeroVironment-branded Nissan LEAF charging station look like.

Meh, just use a relay for your “PWM”. It’s much easier, and you have a huge low pass filter. You can easily go up to a few Hz switching with a good realy. Use a solid state relay and it’s even better (you might break your mechanical relay after prolonged use).

Turns out my old GTX670 draws a lot more power than my new GTX1080 and, based on napkin calculations, brought my total power draw a bit too close to my 750W PSU’s limit. (200W CPU doing me no favors…)

Pioneer has announced it is offering three in-dash receiver models for your car that support CarPlay and Android Auto. Pioneer says that the units — the AVIC-W8400NEX, -W6400NEX, and -W4400NEX — are the first in-dash receivers to support FLAC files without the need to convert, and they’re the first that can connect wirelessly or over USB to both Android Auto and Apple CarPlay, as reported by Engadget.

Snap! Didn’t even get the first instrument lit. I began to investigate. Wiring size, check. Dimmer output side breaker, still on. Go further down the line and find that the electrician had indeed taken care of it. He re-did my calculations, which at full nominal load looked like a 15 amp breaker on the input side of the dimmer would work just fine. What they didn’t realize is that when you bring an instrument or instruments (depending on the circuit) to full on, you go beyond even 20 amps for just a moment, then it goes down to about 13 amps.

There are only two conductors run from the substation to a normal one phase installation. Those are live and neutral. Though the neutral is bonded to ground at the substation through the resistor and is also connected to earth at any and all points on the cable where any work is done it is still neutral. At the house the neutral and ground become separate conductors. The neutral is treated as a live wire when working on the system, as far as I know all utilities treat neutral as another phase for safety reasons.

The first was when I was a wee, messing w/ a big 24v motor w/ weight (read: kickback voltage as it spools down && lots of amperage) and I turned it on w/ my hands on both leads…

Very nice. It’s similar to my Toast-R-Reflow power board (though that one has two channels and uses BTA-20s).

Heck, as I said, when I have needed to do this in the past I just used a multimeter, a terminal block, and no relaying whatsoever (ah, being perhaps complacent “qualified personnel”, eh?)

I play around w/ HV/low amperage PSUs all the time, that stuff will make you lose control of your muscles…

Ladies and Gentlemen, I hereby nominate [cyberteque] as the replacement for our recently departed “most interesting man in the world”. Assuming he was, in fact, nearly eaten alive by a feral pig, or trapped under a hang glider under water. Double votes if he was nearly eaten alive by a feral pig who was flying a hang glider upside-down under the water.