Looking Mains Voltage In The Eye And Surviving | 25 Amp Circuit Breaker

Where a conventional SLR has an optical viewfinder, the Sony A33/55 substitutes an electronic display with an eyepiece attached. (An electronic viewfinder, or EVF for short.) The image for the EVF is taken from the main image sensor, so the camera is essentially always in "Live View" mode. Mechanically, the eyepiece projects out from the back of the camera a fair bit, to leave room for the camera’s autofocus system in front of the EVFs micro display and viewfinder optics. I found I actually liked this rear projection, as it left a bit more room for my nose when I held the camera to my eye. Happily, the neckstrap eyelets are arranged such that the camera hangs lens-down when on a neck strap, so I had no trouble with the projecting eyepiece poking me in the chest.

There is a huge difference between heater and electric motor when it comes to inrush current. But anyway haven’t seen 600A contactor for switching on 60A motor.

It’s the peak rating. For constant loads, or anything that could be temporarily constant you need to de-rate.

24v 12a is not that much more at 288watts. I’m sure I’m missing something to do with electromagnetism which makes the secondary unnatractive?

Not at all. One lumberjack pushes while the other pulls, and they’re both pushing and pulling against the ground. It’s fits perfectly.

It may be just perception coloured by the general work environment, but a lot of the US regs seem driven by liability concerns. Too many lawyers.

This causes some headaches for a friend who has to deal with unaware contractors installing 240VAC or 220 VAC devices in condo kitchens what have 208VAC, not 240VAC. Some devices don’t work, some don’t work well.

Although a mains powered heated bed sounds scary for a hobbyist-built 3D printer, there are a number of positives to the design. It would heat up faster, thin down a few parts, and significantly reduce the overall cost of the printer by not requiring another 100 Watts delivered from a 12V power supply. It’s a great idea if it doesn’t burn down the house. Anyone want to help?

Called the MPSMv2, the core of the project is the ESP8266 module. The dev board itself can support anything with GPIO pins, whether it’s an Arudino, Raspberry Pi, or anything else with those features. Flashing the NodeMCU firmware is pretty much all that needs to be done in order to get the device up and running, and once you get the device connected to your WiFi you’ll be able to control whatever appliances you want.

PS I understand L1 will work for many people (up to maybe 40 miles per day driving), I disagree that it should be encouraged due to safety concerns and most general people won’t properly care for the L1 charger.

I was in sixth or seventh grade, playing with a transformer with a 540 V secondary, when I accidentally grabbed one cllp lead too many. The current was flowing from one hand to the other, and I could not let go. Eventually–I’m sure the subjective time was much greater than the actual time–I was able to use my legs to knock myself off of the lab stool onto the concrete floor. Hitting the floor felt so good!

Just make sure everything is safe and properly grounded any time you’re using electrical equipment and everything should be great. No more reaching behind the Christmas tree to unplug the lights at bedtime!