Looking Mains Voltage In The Eye And Surviving | 19mm Momentary Push Button

So a 20 amp breaker is designed to take the load shift on startup. A 15 amp breaker will carry the nominal load, but that surge on startup will kick it every time. In the days before switching supplies the input voltage would vary from 108 to 115VAC where I did work. This occasionally caused breaker trips on the unprepared circuit. I learned to spec high enough to minimize that issue and keep a safety factor in play.

• Circuit conditions such as the peak voltage and current during the surge event • The MOV continuous operating voltage (should be at 20% above maximum system voltage under normal conditions) • The number of surges the MOV must survive • Acceptable let-through voltage for the protected circuit • Any safety standards with which the circuit must comply

99% of the time you can’t even begin to sue because fakes were often dumped and mixed in throughout the supply lines so it’s nearly impossible to track it back to the factory that made the fake. And even if you could find the original factory, international lawsuit rarely works out.

The Battery operated Snow Blowers you see advertised are just toys… Just figure out how big the battery is and the trivial amount of work it could do.

I first thought we were about to see the actual moment when it was about to blow. But this is post mortem autopsy.

Yeah or you could just make an idiot-proof low-voltage one, probably cheaper and easier. That’s the argument, low voltage is much easier to do safely.

The printer does not print onto the heater. The heater is normally under the bed which can be a variety of materials. I use polycarbonate, a lot of people use glass, I think most printers come with aluminium with Kapton tape on top. The heater for the bed is usually safely tucked away where you would need to be somewhat of a contortionist to actually touch it.

Well yeah, that’s what I’ve seen, they fail on and stay on until either they or the piece of kit they are running catch fire.

I think *local* distribution of DC makes some sense. We have too many wall warts in our houses. Standardized 12 volt DC power with a whole-house supply would be far more efficient. Of course, it’s not going to be commonplace in even my children’s lifetime, but…

I had a chance to spend a few days with a late prototype of the Sony A55 (equipped with production firmware version 1.0) prior to its release. (Note that the Sony A33 is so similar to the A55, that we’ve only made a few edits to this Field Test to make it work for the A33 review.) After running a couple thousand shots through it (it does have a very fast continuous mode) I found it to be a pretty compelling camera, combining remarkable shooting speed with a host of other capabilities that really set it apart from most of the market. It’s by no means perfect, but unquestionably expands the range of shooting capabilities open to consumers with average pocketbooks. Looking at just how much I found to comment on below underscores for me just how much Sony has done in the last few months. Read on for some of my thoughts on this new class of consumer SLR:

From the Auris to this, haven’t Toyota learnt anything. It’s just a slightly bigger and slightlly less DULL than the car it replaces.

I am certainly not suggesting HVACR techs engage in performing work outside of their skills or licensures, but, in many cases, being able to identify the problem and making the repair are two different things.