Lenovo’s latest Yoga laptop has an ARM processor and 25 hours of battery life | 25 Amp Circuit Breaker

The customer changed their tune. My boss was impressed (though not enough to give me some coinage for ingenuity) and the electrician was told to change the breakers and add the new feeders to support the load. Got a lot of recommendations from that customer in the years after that.

Pioneer has announced it is offering three in-dash receiver models for your car that support CarPlay and Android Auto. Pioneer says that the units — the AVIC-W8400NEX, -W6400NEX, and -W4400NEX — are the first in-dash receivers to support FLAC files without the need to convert, and they’re the first that can connect wirelessly or over USB to both Android Auto and Apple CarPlay, as reported by Engadget.

I didn’t buy one, largely due to some compromises in the plug-in version. The very high load floor in the cargo area was a big downside for me, as it really limits cargo space.

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Here I have always wondered. If the power bill is such a concern, then why not buy a heat pump for water heating instead? (It drawn typically around half to a third of the power to give the same heat output.)

I think most people recommend having the PSU switched off at the wall. That way it should be pretty much safe, but there is still the other issue you mention.

The Sony A33 includes an internal stereo microphone, actually comprising two separate monaural microphones located on either side of the electronic viewfinder / flash housing. It can also accept external stereo microphones, courtesy of a 3.5mm jack on the left side of the camera body. Alternatively, sound recording in videos can be disabled, if preferred. The built-in speaker in the Sony A33 is monaural, and there’s no manual control over audio recording levels.

Um, Though I live in Oz where we have 240 volt mains, I can see a big error in how it is explained. On, you get two different “phases” on th 110v side of things to increase the measured voltage.

It happens to the best of us. We power up our project and immediately run into issues. Be it spotty communication or microcontroller reset or any number of bugs that have us mystified and picking though our code… only to find that it’s a power supply issue. Anyone who has tried doing Raspberry Pi stuff and depended on the USB power from their PC has certainly been bit by this.

When we moved from the UK about 15 years ago, we lived in a PME TN-S property and my ex neighbors house is still connected thus. Newbuild and current standard might be to try to retrospectively phase that out, but its still a generalization to say all properties will be TN-C connected. If your in a TN-S property, its my understanding that ignoring that layout and putting your own earthing system in and bonding it to the supply one, can result in ground current back flowing through your system from neighboring properties.

Far as I’m aware, you’re supposed to get a qualified person to fit an electric cooker. Of course, doesn’t stop me doing it. Actually more complicated than you think, it’s not just 3 terminals, there’s a dozen bits of plastic and metal in there that all need putting back in the right order.

To take it a step further, I’d take the time to measure the amperage on the circuit. I wrote a blog post dedicated to that topic, titled Using an infrared camera to find an overloaded circuit. Many home inspectors are opposed to doing this type of test, and I say those home inspectors shouldn’t bother scanning an electrical panel. If a home inspector isn’t going to measure amperage, I don’t know how they could report on an overloaded circuit.