Is my appliance compatible with the Amazon Smart Plug? | Circuit Breaker Parts

I’ve had 240v shocks about half-a-dozen times, but the two that I recall were both back in the 80s, and were a) trying to fix a set of disco rope lights whilst they were intermittently working, and b) replacing the panel fuse in my CB PSU that I’d removed and hidden to stop my sister using my rig. Both of them involved my subsequent launching of the equipment across the room, accompanied by some suitable profanities.

I hard-wired my Level 2 charger into my main panel in 2012, using some 8-AWG wire from Home Depot and a double 40A breaker, plus some sundry clips, clamps, and screws. That stuff cost about $50 then. But I’m comfortable with doing such work myself. It’s akin to installing a circuit for a range or a dryer. I recently moved the thing to better suit my new EV.

It would require a molded socket attached to an edge with a standard IEC polarized C7 connector. No exposed conductors anywhere. Could embed a green light for powered up and a red one for hot into the socket molding.

Probably best to derate to 1.5x or 2x. But even then, are the “solder” conductors inside really going to be any different? Looking at then they appear to crate a conductor way bigger than 25A requires.

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There’s a lot of FUD in the comments here about extension cords (which if you know what you’re doing, you have some 12AWG SO and call it a day, 10 if it’s really dang long) and in terms of current, if you screw up and overload a plug you have a handy-dandy circuit breaker there for you. If you want to say I can’t trust that, you have other issues. I wouldn’t want to try this in a house with K&T, which I didn’t know was still so prolifically installed until I moved to the Midwest.

Also I have seen opto-couples where the pins have been spayed out to gain an extra 0.1″ between the rows of pins.

I first thought we were about to see the actual moment when it was about to blow. But this is post mortem autopsy.

If you look at the Fotek datasheet for that relay, you’ll find that the specified heatsink does not resemble a piece of galvanized steel sheet metal, horizontally mounted with a half inch air gap under it, and set on top of a heater.

It really sounds like the issue here is only anticipating a steady load and not a cold start (figuratively and literally) when choosing componenets

The MOT cores are welded to the head, so they’re not coming loose without shearing. The sole purpose of the epoxy would be to keep the coils mounted to the cores (as well as keeping them free of damaging debris that would short the coils.) The only force the epoxy sees is from the eddy currents trying to push the coils away from the core (or vice-versa.) That energy then becomes the electromagnetic force that gets “transferred” to the ferrous cores – that are welded to the head. Since the force from the eddy current is fairly weak, there’s an low extremely low risk for such a failure. Not impossible, but it would take a catastrophic failure.

Haha the big experts get all positive votes, but yours truly with a Master Electrician’s License gets all negatives. Hey, Believe what you want.