How to Fix a Broken Air Conditioner | 19mm Momentary Push Button

If you look at the Fotek datasheet for that relay, you’ll find that the specified heatsink does not resemble a piece of galvanized steel sheet metal, horizontally mounted with a half inch air gap under it, and set on top of a heater.

This is a heater that’s going to be near fingers, or elbows, and is completely accessible to them, completely easy to touch. One day, when he’s distracted thinking about something else (not rare), he’ll end up touching the heater and getting a shock.

Obviously, I enjoy having the Kia Niro around, either in plug-in or standard hybrid variants. It’s not a driver’s car by any means, but for a geek who likes plotting fuel spending in Excel, this would have me dancing in my spreadsheets. This Niro PHEV has me studying what it would take to wire a dedicated charging station in my garage in place of that worn 120v socket.

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The two 120V legs are *in phase* with each other. Residential power in the US is single phase, sometimes called split phase because they’re both 120V relative to the center tapped neutral.

132KV is probably safer if you don’t test it with the back of your hand. It’s not like those little neon screwdrivers are expensive. You’d think in electrician training they’d have taught him about electrocution.

That works, it’s a couple of hours work with an RFM12B. And it’s write-only, so you can’t read the status (so no confirmation it actually turned on/off).

AC may have “won”, but now we need to upgrade to 400 Hz! (smaller transformers, less eddy losses) B^)

I hard-wired my Level 2 charger into my main panel in 2012, using some 8-AWG wire from Home Depot and a double 40A breaker, plus some sundry clips, clamps, and screws. That stuff cost about $50 then. But I’m comfortable with doing such work myself. It’s akin to installing a circuit for a range or a dryer. I recently moved the thing to better suit my new EV.

A properly wired, properly functioning dimmer switch can get hot to the touch. I’ve found that a 65-degree temperature rise is normal for a maxed-out dimmer. If the ambient temperature is 71 degrees and a dimmer switch is at 136 degrees, I’d be concerned, but I wouldn’t report the temperature as a problem. I would, however, take an extra minute or two to figure out how many watts the dimmer is rated for. I’d then make sure there wasn’t too much being controlled by the dimmer.

After which he had an excuse to take the afternoon off and he repaired to the pub for “a feed” of Guinness!

Maybe what should be done is a special 240 outlet be developed and installed in all new construction (1 per garage). Something with safety features like thermal monitoring built into outlet. This would probably cost less than all those annoying ARC fault breakers I am required to have…