I’d like to know how this does around town and also on the highway (independently) when the battery is exhausted. Maybe we should get standard EPA measurements with the battery starting empty in addition to the eMPG test.
If the CH-R and Prius hinted at the dynamic leap that Toyota has taken with these new underpinnings, then the Corolla, with all the inherent advantages that come with being lighter, lower and more compact, confirms them, even in this late prototype form.
There are many applications that don’t require 10A switching. As long as you are aware of the power limit of the device, there’s no harm in making a version for 1A or less.
I use mains power for my bed on both of my 3D printers. It’s controlled from RAMPs exactly the same as a 12v bed would be with the exception that the signal from the RAMPs board is used to trigger a solid state relay. I use a standard silicon heat mat: https://www.google.com/search?q=3m+heat+mat&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjawpmuoOPJAhVFtIMKHXC1AO0Q_AUICCgC&biw=960&bih=557
This certainly looks like one of the more impressive ARM-powered Windows 10 laptops we’ve seen so far. The first few devices ran on the same Snapdragon 835 chip found in Android smartphones from last year, and they showed early promise with some issues that still needed work.
Opto-isolated TRIAC is fine and dandy, but there is no fuse, so if you overload it, you have a cooking TRIAC in your junction box …
The earth ground connection won’t prevent you from being shocked unless it’s a GFI outlet. The soil resistivity in most places in the US doesn’t cause enough current to flow to earth ground to trip a normal breaker. Bonded ground systems are better, but if the bond from neutral to earth ground is far away from the short it might still not trip a normal breaker.
A 25A relay seems perfect for a 22A load. If the relay is really built for 25A and not only marked as one. What use had a maximum rating when you could never really use it?
You neglected to mention the Geiger-Muller counter and the Anthrax detector. Nothing short of criminal negligence to work without either one.
I will not put all the money on the bet, but this one might be indeed one of the solutions: http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/328/lnk302_304-306-179954.pdf if you want something “all-in-one”. I prefer a separate external PSU for many reasons, including circuit separation and protection. You can find 5V and 3.3V SMPS DIN rail mouting ones for decent prices.
The number on this photo is a little misleading. 337 mpg! I think I shot it after having the car for about ten minutes, nearly all of it without using the petrol engine. Still, itâs a nice little tease for any friends riding along.
Before I bring the tools out, I’m going to ask you questions to get an idea of what’s going on and where to look. You might have your theories about what’s wrong and what my questions mean, but don’t give roundabout replies to match those assumptions. Giving me straight answers will save us both time.
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