Hot circuit breakers and dimmer switches | 25 Amp Circuit Breaker

But despite them being ‘commercial’, they’re still pretty hideous bits of cheap Chinese kit that I wouldn’t trust as far as I could throw them.

Found said bare wires and had the ultimate Homer Simpson moment after separating them (probably when the lights weren’t plugged in), and thought ‘hey wouldn’t it be fun to complete this mains circuit across my body’. I didn’t really check with the lights lit up, but I was having a whale of a time juddering and screaming for a few seconds till somehow I managed to let go of the wires

Jerry is Mobile Nation’s resident nerd and proud of it. There’s nothing he can’t take apart, but many things he can’t reassemble. You’ll find him across the Mobile Nations network and you can hit him up on Twitter if you want to say hey.

You could make a multimeter that had an internal switch for volts / amps. But I think electricians wouldn’t trust it. So it’d be a useless feature, as well as, probably, increasing the shunt’s resistance. And be another point of failure somewhere dangerous. Etc! Nobody wants a multimeter that killed their mate.

All of the wire in the high current path is 10 gauge wire that was cut from SOOW cable, so it is, indeed, rated for 600V. In addition, it has 105 degree insulation, which means that it’s actually good for more than 30A. But it’s largely moot since the NEMA 5-15 plugs would only ever be found on 20A circuits (and even then, they likely wouldn’t be dedicated).

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Would that have ever been considered good wiring practice, or is it just the sort of short-cut that would have been done at some point?

In the second week, I’m not even sure why I did it, I was working on a pinball machine and measured 240V between the chrome plates on the front of the 2 pinball machines to either side of the one I was working on. The electrician had “forgotten” to hook any of the earths for the whole building.

Wrong again – The VOLT from the very first had a choice of 8 or 12 – it just wasn’t from the touch screen in the car in the first 2 years, it was a button on their ‘charger cord’. And there was no ‘default’. Unlike later cars such as my ELR and BOLT that must be constantly changed to 12 amps on L1 (yes, I know about zip code based charging on the bolt), my 2011 VOLT would stay at the setting you left it at since it was stored in the EVSE, NOT the car.

You completely missed the point. The safety regulatory doesn’t change regardless of the *perception* or the *knowledge* of the person using it. If you are selling a product or publishing a design, you may ended up being liable for the end users. Even if you are the person that design and build your own stuff, plugging in something not certified pretty much voids your home insurance if it happens to be the cause of a fire etc. On the other hand if you are playing with ELV from UL etc approved/certified supplies, you are covered.

I couldn’t even find a de-rating chart or graph online for this relay. Also, many SSRs (and other devices) do not recommend the “bottom” orientation for heat sinks.

But at the same time, if one wants a high efficiency power supply, then the manufacturer typically have placed in a rectifier that is technically over specified for the job, as these devices are generally not that expensive, and are an easy way to cut down a few watts overall without adding any substantial extra cost.