I learned British version of English, but my accent is all over the place. I also speak a bit of Spanish, Portuguese, Latin and a tiny bit of German. I can swear in Russian too, because my wife knows that language. And don’t forget my native tongue, which is Polish.
It calls out a MOC3041M on the silkscreening. One can use a MOC3041 of course as they are the same form factor.
I neither would recommend the mains power approach (230V in Europe), the power of 120W is very well to be handled with 24V, even 36V is necessary. This 3D printers are in many cases still some kind of “hacker toy”, often are modifications or experiments done.
I walked in on instrument installation day and began the burn in test of running the halogen fixtures at 100%, then bringing it down over the course of 30 minutes to determine if we had a bad SCR dimmer.
L2 EVSE (preferably hardwired) is much safer, plus much better experience. Don’t have people say: “Why isn’t my car charged, it has been an hour?”
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I love the concept and the build. But does potting with epoxy resin have enough strength to hold magnets in place? I did not see any mechanical fastners holding magnets in place . If epoxy cracks I see magnets pulling out of metal bracket and failure .Over to someone with engineering experience please.
Ultimately under-rating won’t solve the problem. The Chinese scammers are already putting below-rated parts in, because they assume most users will under-rate anyway, so they’ll get away with it. If, in response to that, you under-rate even more, and this becomes mainstream, what do you think will happen? They’ll just take it into account, same as ever, and the 75A parts you’re putting 40A through, because you want to be careful, will only contain 20A triacs.
A few people made some useful design suggestions. I like the Power Integrations LNK switch suggestion for power. I’d also recommend looking at the SR086, which does the same thing — but it’s inductorless! That’s the chip I’m using for my ESP8266-based WiFi dimmer.
Coastal BC might be viable for them, here in the “temperate” bit of Ontario they’d be good in April and October.
The contacts open because of the electromagnetic force (magnetism) generated in an iron core around which the relay’s coil is wrapped (Figure 3).
Neutral is connected to Earth Ground at your electrical panel. Circuit breakers interrupt the LINE only so I’m not sure what you mean by soil resistivity and current flowing in earth ground. 500 micro amps flowing or rather, leaking through Earth ground is usually all that’s allowed by UL in cord-connected products.
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