Here’s What You Need To Charge Your Electric Car At Home | 19mm Momentary Push Button

From the Auris to this, haven’t Toyota learnt anything. It’s just a slightly bigger and slightlly less DULL than the car it replaces.

He did specifically mount/build that setup around the possibility of failure. He talks about it in the first few minutes of the video. Kinda a hyped up headline.

Exactly, sometimes less of a compact form factor makes a better product overall. Snubber circuit is a nice touch tough.

The real problem with mains voltages is that somewhere, some day, some bonehead will manage to fry himself – and the media will blame the maker movement for it. I’ve already seen far too many absolute beginners planning to wire up their home appliances to an Arduino as their first project…

Besides the overexposure bias, I also found the A33′s metering system was prone to more variation than I’m accustomed to seeing in an SLR. The few times I had it locked down on a tripod, shot to shot exposure seemed pretty consistent, but on several occasions shooting handheld, I found significant variation between successive shots, apparently resulting from fairly minor changes in framing. I’d of course expect exposure to vary to follow changes in the scene, but the amount of variation I saw between very similar shots taken with the A33 was unusual.

The melted solder was probably a secondary failure. When SSRs fail they often turn into heaters as his did and the heat from the base plate itself melted the solder before incinerating the plastic housing.

As someone who started playing with electronics in the days of B+ in the 350VDC range with double that across the main xformer’s secondary, I was utterly appalled at the idea of tying myself to a hard ground when working with some of the newer (for the time) solid-state stuff that was coming out. We had a respect for high voltage then that is often missing these days, this article is an excellent reminder that this is still needed.

I couldn’t even find a de-rating chart or graph online for this relay. Also, many SSRs (and other devices) do not recommend the “bottom” orientation for heat sinks.

Having a separate wire coming out of the box seems like an extra hazard to me. If you keep the thing self-contained with only mains-in/mains-out, I would think it is safer in the end, and removes the internal complexity of optocouplers.

No, that’s not a typo in the fact box up top. I drove the Niro PHEV a total of 253.2 miles, and topped off the tank with 3.107 gallons of regular unleaded. 81.4934 miles to the gallon very nearly doubles the mileage I observed last year in the standard Niro. 26 miles of all-electric range makes a serious difference — there were many days where the gasoline engine never fired.

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This makes a lot of sense. There are many rather cheap dimmers that can drive a 500W ‘flood’ lamp, so it’s probably better to modify one of theses, and keep it outside the wall socket…