Heavy Lift Electromagnet from Microwave Oven Transformers | 25 Amp Circuit Breaker

If you’re comfortable swapping out a circuit breaker, you can get GFCI circuit breakers as well. Protect the whole circuit at the panel.

But who cares, there are plenty of (approved) lightning dimmers that are for replacing teh regular wall switches and they are usually *not* capable of dimming 2 KW loads which is the full capacity of a regular outlet. But rather just a few hundred watts, enough for its intended usage.

Centered to the right of the lens in the photo above is the lens release button, while the depth-of-field preview button is positioned snugly at the bottom left corner of the lens mount. A small plastic panel in the handgrip conceals the infrared remote control sensor at top, and the self-timer lamp beneath. Directly beneath the shutter button and power switch is the control dial, used to make adjustments to exposure and variables and menu options.

I was tasked with doing this last week at work and spent considerable time researching the best/safest way to do it with consumer equipment. As far as I can see the best solution is to use one of the many 433MHz RF controlled power adapters (Watts Clever sell them for as little as $10 each) and use the same record/playback trick used to record TV remote IR signals and play them back with an Arduino. Unfortunately the project requirements changed and I didn’t get to actually implement it but I see no reason why it wouldn’t have worked. Apart from being very cheap (~20 per unit) it keeps the mains voltage completely isolated from everything else, which is particularly important from a liability perspective when you have to deliver the units to an external client.

The controller board for the heat pump in our “3 Season porch” fried last January during a cold spell. All of the house plants we were keeping in there froze to death. SE Minnesota

The risk / reward ratio just doesn’t seem worth it to me, when it’s so easy to have an intrinsically safe low-voltage one.

I am glad, that finally someone posts this, because this is also my information about dangers of electricity. I just have not been sure enough, if I had missed something. I also heard, that a DC accident can kill you hours later even if you are not burnt that heavily, because DC is able to cause electrolysis in your body which upsets the delicate balance of electrolytes in your blood and tissue.

All of this, if you suppose that you are taking a full hand of cable. Got shocked a few times with AC (and DC as well) and since I was just thouching, not handling, I had no trouble to get away with it (just swearing A LOT and throwing my screwdriver through the room).

From the top of the Sony Alpha A33 camera body, you can just see the stereo microphones, located on either side of the flash hot shoe on the sides of the viewfinder / popup flash housing, as well as the three hole grille the speaker (above the Finder/LCD button). At the top of the handgrip is the popular combination of a shutter button surrounded by a power switch, making it easy to quickly power on the camera and snap a picture with one finger. The Finder / LCD button allows the A33 to be manually switched between shooting with the electronic viewfinder or the rear LCD panel. Upper right of this is a D-Range button that provides access to Dynamic Range Optimizer and High Dynamic Range shooting options.

Not really clear but good point. I met an electrician who told me : ‘230VAC is not dangerous, I’m getting shocked a lot, it really hurts when its 400VAC. Oh by the way, I have to get an appointment for my heart !’

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A relay with its contacts can take some inrush current. I found value’s between 15A and 30A for a typical 10A relay. Some datasheets even specify motor load with FLA and LRA (locked rotor amp, the max. value you get at start up.