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Does Tesla Make The Best Value EVSE For Non-Tesla Owners? | Lrd12 Overload Relay

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Oh… As for power meter… OpenEVSE II – my own take on OpenEVSE – has an isolated voltmeter and an ammeter in it. There’s development firmware being worked on right now that keeps a running kW-hr log on the display. Very handy. :)

I’m surprised no one mentioned how Mattias Wandel mounted the SSR on a piece of sheet metal (pretending it will be a heat sink), then mounted it on a water _heater_. I know the heater is insulated so it really shouldn’t be radiating any heat, but wouldn’t it have made more sense to mount the SSR on the cold water inlet pipe? You want to heat the water anyway… When I saw his first video showing off the project I said to myself that’s not going to end well. I’m surprised it lasted this long.

2. It’s very likely that this device will need to be used with extension cords in order to find two GFCI-free outlets in different phases. That, fundamentally, is why this project is – generally speaking – a bad idea. Still, extension cords can be used safely if you don’t draw too much current through them. The use notes in the article speak to the need to derate circuits appropriately. But that said, the derating doesn’t change just because you pull 240V instead of 120V.

Very interesting article. Being in the “treat it like radioactive anthrax” crowd, I rarely mess with mains level voltage, but I got a peek at what is required to do so. I read the paragraph about the “residual current circuit breaker” and thought it sounded very much like a GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter). I clicked the link and sure enough, that was exactly what it was. I was surprised the article didn’t immediately describe it as such, but as mentioned in the Wiki that the link led to, only the US and Canada call it that.

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AC is safer than DC. You can let go of two AC terminals but not DC as DC keeps your muscles clenched. AC doesn’t.

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For a TRIAC I bend the middle pin forward 0.1″ – 0.2″, this is often done commercially and you can even buy them pre-bent.

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I certain the Residual Current Circuit Breaker is what GFCI is in North America. Not expensive at all for the units that will fit into a device box. The breaker that mount in the breaker panel are pretty pricey though, but are rarely called for. The only time they are needed if a building uses shallow device boxes for some reason.

Michael Ashbaugh writes technical analysis for MarketWatch and is editor of MarketWatch’s "The Technical Indicator" newsletter.

Though, how ever, even with a heat pump, one could lower the power bill a bit more if one takes the power when it is cheapest.

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