Could A Fire Have Caused The Loss Of MH370? | 220v Contactor Relay

L2 is absolutely useful in cold climate, specially when you don’t have a heated garage. Because a very minimalistic L1 level won’t be able to charge much while also having to keep the battery at a functional temperature, more less to preheat the car or the battery at optimal temperature.

Indeed, I did a HV Course at a functioning power station where once you had isolated an 11kV switchboard you had to grab hold of the bus bars to show the other workers it was safe to carry out their work.

I play around w/ HV/low amperage PSUs all the time, that stuff will make you lose control of your muscles…

How about trying to say something accurate for a change? Almost everything you say lately is provably WRONG.

I would build a custom circuit board, and not use soldermask on the heater side. Instead, I would bond a sheet of pyralux on the face of the heater. Pyralux is Kapton with integrated thermoset acrylic adhesive on one or both sides. 2 mil Kapton has a voltage standoff of 10KV, so electric shock would not be a problem. Bonding can be done in a standard oven using metal plates and clamps (to apply pressure), or with a special heated press.

I’m confused… “Wire up the outlets for your mining rigs for 240 instead of 120”, shouldn’t you rig it up to use whatever enters your home. Apparently there is a choice, how is that possible, do they run their own generators over there?

Larger motors used in rural settings and light industry may aswell use 400 voltage between phases by triangle connection. 3 phase 16A sockets are almost never seen in apartments, but are usually found from houses that have garage or other workspace with larger machinery. Larger 3 phase sockets are very common in farm setting and light industrial buildings. E.g. our hackerspace has air compressor that is fed by 3x 400V 25A line. It doesn’t even have neutral line, motor is connected to triangle and 24V for control logic is stepped down from 400V with transformer.

There are notable advances in interior quality and function, most significantly with the dash getting a complete overhaul that includes better materials, layout and an eight-inch screen operated by buttons and touch as standard. It’s both smart and reasonably intuitive, albeit slightly short of some of the slickness of VW’s various systems. As is common in the class, Toyota has expertly put the best materials where you are most likely to see and touch them, with hard, basic plastics mostly hidden in corners of the car.

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Actually, some places (notably Australia and the UK) go to 240V, and this is +/- 10%, so theoretically you could be seeing anything up to 264V supplied. However, the supply companies seem to have a “better high than low” philosophy, and my UPS tells me I am currently receiving 257V on a 240V line. I actually believe the UPS, as I’ve regularly seen this happen with test equipment on the line.

I know some policies that clearly state work needs to be performed by “duly licensed” personnel (ie. you better be a licensed electrician or plumber). That’s one of the reasons I did not want to install my own automated transfer switch. Insurance company would possibly deny coverage in event of a mishap.

Chances are almost anything you would want to power on and off through a Smart Plug will work. Lights — whether incandescent, LED, or fluorescent — are compatible as long as they are standard devices intended for use in the home (something like a street lamp or traffic light probably won’t work) and should work flawlessly. Audio-visual equipment should work provided it doesn’t need a power cycle through the built-in switch, and other smart devices like cameras or home hubs should work just fine.