Constellation Performance Centaur II 500 power amplifier | Circuit Breaker Parts

For a TRIAC I bend the middle pin forward 0.1″ – 0.2″, this is often done commercially and you can even buy them pre-bent.

http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/automotive/interior-auto-accessories/winter-accessories/automotive-accessories/polar-pad-engine-heater-125w-0300004p.html

Burst depth for the Sony A33 is seven Raw or Raw+JPEG frames, and 16 Fine or 20 Standard JPEG frames in a burst. That’s quite a bit less than the A55, which can capture twenty Raw or Raw+JPEG frames, while JPEG shooters can expect 35 Fine or 39 Standard-compression frames, but in our experience, the Sony A33 makes up for this deficit somewhat by clearing its buffer much faster. This means that although the A55 will get you more shots in a burst, the A33 will be ready to start another burst much sooner.

But I don’t like the mains powered heater in this case: If you take 120W @24V its just 5A. No problem for a switching transistor or wires with 0,5mm² and you keep the mains voltage in the PSU box. Which I prefer in this case. Mains rated cabling (230V here in Europe) are not thinner and need thicker insulation. In the worst case you have to have PE connection to any metal part of the construction.

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A good quality EVSE can cost between $300 and around $1,200. If you’re choosing a wall-mounted unit, expect to pay another several hundred dollars for installation, depending on local labor rates and permit costs.

Exactly, sometimes less of a compact form factor makes a better product overall. Snubber circuit is a nice touch tough.

I’m confused… “Wire up the outlets for your mining rigs for 240 instead of 120”, shouldn’t you rig it up to use whatever enters your home. Apparently there is a choice, how is that possible, do they run their own generators over there?

We recently watched [MakeItExtreme] turn a couple of microwave oven transformers into a somewhat ill-advised wall-climbing rig. It looks like that may have been the inspiration for this build, and the finished product appears to be a tad more useful this time. The frames of three MOTs are cut open to remove the secondary coils and leave the cores exposed as poles for the future magnets. A shallow dish is fabricated out of steel and the magnets are welded in place.

If I remember right Edmund sold a one ton lift magnet that would work with one dry cell. It was about 3 to 4 inches in diameter and half as thick with a single piece of iron with a circular groove for the coil. I saw a similar magnet lift a car at the Museum of Science and Industry in Chicago decades ago. The trick is perfect flat coupling to a thick flat piece on the load.

Meanwhile in my house (uk) we have a street lamp time switch with a single pole switch that looks like it was designed to handle 30A. It is beautifully engineered from brass that increases the on period as the days get shorter, I felt bad hacking it so that it would turn on my water heater for an hour twice a day, a job it has been doing for 17 years now without incident. Electromechanical is by far the best way for high current loads at any voltage as fatcas I’m concerned.

The TLDR; is – “In high voltage systems clearance according to EN60065:1994, 3 mm is required for Class I and for Class II, 6 mm is required in mains operated systems (240VAC)”