So a 20 amp breaker is designed to take the load shift on startup. A 15 amp breaker will carry the nominal load, but that surge on startup will kick it every time. In the days before switching supplies the input voltage would vary from 108 to 115VAC where I did work. This occasionally caused breaker trips on the unprepared circuit. I learned to spec high enough to minimize that issue and keep a safety factor in play.
“International” power supplies usually are specified for 100V (Japan) to 240V +/- 10%, i.e., 90-264V.
If existing nominees don’t get confirmed before this congressional term concludes, they will have to be renominated by the White House in the new year. McConnell has emphasized that getting as many nominees through as possible is one of his key priorities this term and the next.
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If you have an older system, you might like to see more of a pool system rebuild. If you are interested in controlling the pool chemistry, we’ve seen that before, too.
I really do like the C-Max, as it’s a compelling value, and it actually drives fairly well in my opinion.
When I was a kid I built a Tesla coil using a 12kV neon sign transformer which my mom got for me (this was the 1960s, before Americans turned into wimps). At some point I had the transformer sitting on my workbench and plugged in, with nothing connected to the output. The corona discharge made a hissing sound, but I had music on and couldn’t hear it. Perhaps eight inches away was my table radio, which had a metal chassis. I reached between the two to get something, and my arm shortened the air path enough for an arc to form. I had a couple of nifty burn marks (entry and exit) for a few weeks.
The first was working with a bench buddy on a military SSB Shortwave amp. My bench buddy assured me he had powered the system down and unplugged everything necessary, and I trusted him. I reached in with a pair of needle nose pliers to remove the plate voltage supply on the amp tube, and got hit by 26kv DC. Shouted and was teleported backwards about 3 feet, but no damage done (except a small melted bit on the end of the pliers).
The main issue would be shock protection. A bare PCB with solder mask probably won’t cut it for UL or CE. If you have vias in the element traces, it will probably be really dodgy. On a commercial product which you can’t (are not supposed to) open and tinker with, there is probably a way to do this easily. For a DIY printer, not so much.
Norm, remember your high school electrical classes, and don’t confuse the young ‘uns here. I’m sure you’ll recall that halving the current reduces losses (heating) in a conductor to one quarter: losses are proportional to the square of the current.
Exactly, sometimes less of a compact form factor makes a better product overall. Snubber circuit is a nice touch tough.
Regular gasoline costs about $3 per gallon where I live, so it’ll cost (26 / 46 * 3) = $1.70 to propel the Niro the next 26 miles after the battery is depleted.
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