what really matters is whether or not your insurance company will deny your claim. if you have homebrew stuff like this then you are wasting your money on homeowner’s insurance. and of course if your homeowners insurance is invalid then the bank will get a little upset about their mortgage
But I don’t like the mains powered heater in this case: If you take 120W @24V its just 5A. No problem for a switching transistor or wires with 0,5mm² and you keep the mains voltage in the PSU box. Which I prefer in this case. Mains rated cabling (230V here in Europe) are not thinner and need thicker insulation. In the worst case you have to have PE connection to any metal part of the construction.
Eh, boneheads frying themselves or setting their houses on fire because of DIY approach to mains wiring are hardly something new that can be blamed on the “maker movement”.
If a consequence is human death then obviously that is completely unacceptable. If it blows a fuse at 1000V then good! If traces vaporise disconnecting the mains at 10,000Votls then well done! Where is the weakest point (lowest creepage clearance for the exposed voltages) and what are the consequences of a flash over at that point.
Unfortunately, by in large, the comments for this article were unnecessarily negative, and downright factually inaccurate.
This makes a lot of sense. There are many rather cheap dimmers that can drive a 500W ‘flood’ lamp, so it’s probably better to modify one of theses, and keep it outside the wall socket…
Pioneer has announced it is offering three in-dash receiver models for your car that support CarPlay and Android Auto. Pioneer says that the units — the AVIC-W8400NEX, -W6400NEX, and -W4400NEX — are the first in-dash receivers to support FLAC files without the need to convert, and they’re the first that can connect wirelessly or over USB to both Android Auto and Apple CarPlay, as reported by Engadget.
Nichrome expands a lot when it’s heated which is why it’s often in spirals or loops. Copper also expands significantly when it heats so what ‘relief’ could there be for this expansion – and at a high enough temperature the copper traces would de-laminate from the FR4.
For transient rise times of 0.1 to 0.2 μs, twice the unit value of surge capability is required on stator windings. When rise times reach 1.2 μs or greater, 4.5 times the unit value is stipulated. In the case of external transients such as lightning, this would equate to a surge voltage capability of 918 VPEAK for a 230-V motor (full load current = 12 A) on a 250-V high-line condition. (Lightning surges can exceed these values, so stator windings would also need a suppression element for protection.)
The second was in an industrial setting, working on repairing a 480v-supplied welder in a hard-wired installation. Plant electrician assured me the circuit was locked & tagged out. I trusted him. Sprayed some contact cleaner on the mains relay to start, and took 480v up the spray and into the can (and my hands holding it). That was an unusual sensation.
Let’s see, you’ve pooh-poohed my 12kV hit and [Scott_Tx]’s 90V one, so I guess 440V three-phase (was it the high leg, or one of the low legs?) is the sweet spot for you. Lucky for our edification that the boots did indeed save you. I knew someone who was quite thoroughly taken out by 220V in a basement while wearing (presumably damp) leather sandals.
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