Charting the S&P 500’s range-bound, but bullish, (unofficial) summer start | 19mm Momentary Push Button

I will tell you guys how to dim lights with relays, but first you have to tell me how you dim them when using a zero cross detection optotriac.

Haha the big experts get all positive votes, but yours truly with a Master Electrician’s License gets all negatives. Hey, Believe what you want.

many years ago I had the bad behaviour to strip cables using my teeth… well, one day I was ready to strip the end of a cable that used to connected to my portable stereo (240v), its just few seconds that I noticed that the other end was still plugged-in on the mains…

Alpha mount. The Sony A33 accepts Alpha-mount lenses from Sony, and is backward-compatible with older Minolta or Konica Minolta A-mount lenses, allowing use of a huge range of both current and historic glass. Compared to single-lens direct view cameras — even Sony’s own NEX series — this will likely make the Sony A33 a much more attractive proposition for existing Alpha or A-mount photographers. While Alpha-mount lenses can be used on NEX cameras through a mount adapter, they lose their in-body SteadyShot capabilities, whereas the Sony A33 retains this capability with the same lenses. (In an earlier version of this review, we also called attention to the inability to autofocus using Alpha-mount lenses on NEX-series bodies, but this looks to be negated by a forthcoming update for the LA-EA1 mount adapter that will enable Alpha-mount AF on NEX bodies. We’ve not yet tested this update, and hence can’t comment on how NEX and SLT-series cameras will compare in this area.) Sony rates the SteadyShot sensor shift mechanism in the Alpha A33 for between 2.5 and four stops of correction.

But at the same time, if one wants a high efficiency power supply, then the manufacturer typically have placed in a rectifier that is technically over specified for the job, as these devices are generally not that expensive, and are an easy way to cut down a few watts overall without adding any substantial extra cost.

There’s a proper place for a relay and a proper place for a SSR. And I agree this solution should have been a relay.

This seems to me that your experiment failed due to thermal failure cased by insufficient cooling and not the part itself..You stated yourself that the part failed due to thermal expansion (insufficient cooling). But it’s still a valid experiment with valid results. And you show that it’s up to the designer (or designers) to design the entire product, which includes sufficient cooling. This is one area where home designs fail – a lot.

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I know this goes against what many of you have been told and understood your entire career, but take a deep breath and read on.

This hack is ridiculous and a hazard. The NEC bans the use of MWBC’s that don’t use a common circuit breaker tie-bar. The tie-bar causes both halves of the 240VAC circuit to turn off incase of an overcurrent condition.

You really should drop the 110/240 volts statements and use 120/240 volts for residential installs. I don’t think 110 volts has been used since Thomas Edison.

I play around w/ HV/low amperage PSUs all the time, that stuff will make you lose control of your muscles…