120V comes with a nice plug (NEMA 5-15P) that is smaller than EU’s and you can fit more of them onto a power bar. There are always two outlets in a wall receptacle. Unless you have wet fingers, 120V won’t kill you (usually). Ask most kids that stuck things in the wall outlet and have lived to tell their tale… it is very common. Aluminum wire for branch circuits in homes was all but banned three decades ago or more. I think you have embellished things a bit. Look up the history why Europe went 50 Hz, instead of a higher frequency like 60 Hz… your lower 50 Hz results in heavier transformer cores. Find out why Japan is 100V, and the country is split 50/60 Hz! There is always politics, and not pure technical reasons.
I can’t speak for the ‘3’, but you can – since you can at least compare your cost of charging with the 240 – 250 volt cost in the Tesla Calculator.
132KV is probably safer if you don’t test it with the back of your hand. It’s not like those little neon screwdrivers are expensive. You’d think in electrician training they’d have taught him about electrocution.
People are so fixated by the calculation of amount of liquid per mile, they can’t–and won’t–figure it out on the basis of how much money it costs to drive each mile.

You need to learn how to read a datasheet and understand the terms – without an understanding it won’t do you any good.
The Death Star post illustrates why we shouldn’t let economists decide how to run things. That and a million other stories from real life.
If the CH-R and Prius hinted at the dynamic leap that Toyota has taken with these new underpinnings, then the Corolla, with all the inherent advantages that come with being lighter, lower and more compact, confirms them, even in this late prototype form.
I had a job testing these once, and I can confirm that standard failure mode for overcurrent is some kind of explosion. Usually it was a puff of flame and dust down the leg, but occasionally we’d get a TO220 blown in half

This hack is ridiculous and a hazard. The NEC bans the use of MWBC’s that don’t use a common circuit breaker tie-bar. The tie-bar causes both halves of the 240VAC circuit to turn off incase of an overcurrent condition.
While the Sony A33 and A55′s viewfinder display led to a bit of a learning curve for tracking fast action, its buffer-clearing speed is an ongoing issue. The A55 can capture shots with amazing speed, but once its buffer is filled, things slow down dramatically. The A33, for its part, has a smaller buffer, but it takes less time to clear. The most irritating point with the A55 was that it seemed to take forever before it would let me look at what I’d just shot. This is certainly more of an issue for a relatively inexperienced user than a pro sports photographer, but I often found myself wanting to check out what I’d just shot before the next action sequence started so I could note and correct for any problems in my shooting style. If I’d filled the buffer, though, it took upwards of 15-18 seconds before I could even view the first image on the LCD — and a good while longer before the buffer was completely empty and the camera was back to its maximum burst-length capacity. Shoot RAW+JPEG and it takes 32 seconds to clear a maximum of 18 images, while the A33 only captures 7 images and takes 12 seconds to clear. Advantage A33.
I probably ought to be dead, or have some scars at least, but apparently I’m a very resistant person.
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