Battlefield V’s creators: female characters are ‘here to stay’ | Lrd12 Overload Relay

However, DC distribution at the municipality level and smaller will be a nightmare to make work. Pretty much *everything* needs to be replaced, and for what purpose? It doesn’t really solve any significant problems and raises a host of others.

Often, the downside to those positives would be an overly-hard ride, but the MacPherson front and double wishbone rear suspension has been tuned to largely cope with what comes its way. There is a firmness that can translate to bumps and surface breaks unsettling the car, but on these Spanish roads at least, even on larger-than-standard 18-inch wheels, they were decently controlled. While it’s no guarantee of success, the development team tested extensively in the UK. There is also an option to fit a five-way adaptive system that includes damping alterations, opening up everything from eco and comfort modes to increasingly sporty ones to be considered – although you’d need to be dedicated to use them all.

In some places, you can get 120 and 240, or you could wire up a large transformer at your mains distribution board and get what ever voltage you wish. Might need to call the local electrician to not loose any legal battles if the house burns down.

I have never understood why North America stayed in their stupid 120V system, that uses very high currents over inferior aluminium wires, connected with lose screwcaps and fuses that may explode out of the wall. And it would be probably federal crime and against the code to use proper copper wires connected with good push lock blocks and DIN rail mounted fuses and contactors…

Alternatively, the stillborn 42V automotive power standard is another solution. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/42-volt_electrical_system

Which part is wrong? Lets use the IEC definitions of the different systems for clarity and you can educate me with some links to regs where I’m wrong, since I don’t do this for a living or have formal certifications in it. I’ve just a couple of years back installed 380v 3 phase into my barn conversion in mainland France myself and its most definitely a terra terra (TN) earthing system I put in. I had a inspection to get my certificate (certificate du consuel) to connect from a inspector, who during his 3 hr inspection tested the impedance to ground of my independant earth with a megga tester then checked all the earth pins in every socket for spec of impedance back to my earth point, all of which are wired star back to the main consumer unit (ring main is illegal here). We get presented 3 phase wires + a neutral as tails into our main consumer unit from the RCD device (called a disjoncteur) belonging to EDF (supply company) and its not permitted to bond neutral to your own earthing system under the regs.

First, some background. I am a design engineer working on safety of life critical hardware design and technology development for a military application. I noticed this project a while back, and I invested some thought into how I would design the system.

I couldn’t even find a de-rating chart or graph online for this relay. Also, many SSRs (and other devices) do not recommend the “bottom” orientation for heat sinks.

I didn’t buy one, largely due to some compromises in the plug-in version. The very high load floor in the cargo area was a big downside for me, as it really limits cargo space.

There’s a lot of FUD in the comments here about extension cords (which if you know what you’re doing, you have some 12AWG SO and call it a day, 10 if it’s really dang long) and in terms of current, if you screw up and overload a plug you have a handy-dandy circuit breaker there for you. If you want to say I can’t trust that, you have other issues. I wouldn’t want to try this in a house with K&T, which I didn’t know was still so prolifically installed until I moved to the Midwest.

Anyone “hacking” an appliance that can literally burn down your house, voids any safety certifications the appliance was manufactured with. The insurance company would ‘probably’ have the option of simply denying any claims arising from a fire caused by the hacked appliance. This is speculation since I’m not an attorney, but it would be prudent to consult with a knowledgeable agent before undertaking any such projects. My policy specifically excludes “events” as a result of deliberate modification of appliances that the manufacturer of said appliance has not authorized.

I can only think of a single instance in the last six months where the HPWC higher charge rate would have made a difference for us, and even then it would have simply made leaving for a long trip slightly more comfortable.