AMP Seeks More PJM Scrutiny of TO Projects | Circuit Breaker Parts

The Sony A33 offers a lot of control for shooting contrasty subjects. Dynamic Range Optimizer (DRO) adjusts contrast and brightness to optimize the camera’s use of available dynamic range. Auto HDR modes use three quick shots to cover an amazing tonal range. (The shot on the right represents the maximum range of 6 EV.)

And use a power circuit with a differential circuit breaker so if you touch live wire it will disconnect.

The customer wasn’t pleased. I had obviously done something wrong. I showed them the paperwork with the specifications showing that the input to the dimmers was to be 20 amps. They insisted that their electrician knew better than I did.

That wouldn’t make things any safer, per se. It would give you an additional diagnostic datapoint as to which of the two 120V inputs has the reversal. But the primary symptom of a hot-neutral reversal is the angry buzz from the third relay combined with the third light not coming on.

The best defense is to make sure you buy from reputable sources, not from some backyard hardware store or eBay.

Stone (Bronze?) Face Human facial expressions can be incredibly fleeting; High shooting speed can help in places you might not expect.

If a high-frequency current is large enough to be immediately painful, it’s large enough to immediately burn you, which is why hooking a tesla coil to a doorknob is rather dubious. It hurts, because it really hurts.

We recently had a chat among the Hackaday writers about how we could approach this subject. The easy way out is to be all Elf-and-Safety and join the radioactive anthrax crowd. But the conclusion we came to was that this site is a resource for hackers and makers. Some of you are going to lift the lid on boxes containing significant voltages no matter what, so we thought we’d help you do it safely rather than just listen for the distant screams.

All this stuff makes me think it might be time to get a Faraday cage installed around my heart. Or maybe a big shunt from shoulder to shoulder.

Although a mains powered heated bed sounds scary for a hobbyist-built 3D printer, there are a number of positives to the design. It would heat up faster, thin down a few parts, and significantly reduce the overall cost of the printer by not requiring another 100 Watts delivered from a 12V power supply. It’s a great idea if it doesn’t burn down the house. Anyone want to help?

How about trying to say something accurate for a change? Almost everything you say lately is provably WRONG.

The media aren’t rational about anything. Not something you can really do much about, especially by being reasonable. Try not to think about it too much, is probably the best way to cope.