PHEV is a lousy name for a class of cars, but what a good class they are. Most everything you say here could be said of my 2017 Ford C-Max Energi. It gets almost twice the MPG as my control car, a 2014 C-Max Hybrid. PHEV MPGs vary wildly according to your use patterns, but FWIW, mine is stuck on 65 cumulative MPG for its first 20,00 miles. At least half these days, I drove beyond the 20 mile EV range, and I drove over 100 miles on two or three days of the week, so I didn’t restrict my use to inflate my mileage.
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For example, you can assemble a computer and do anything you want with the low-voltage parts, but opening the PSU and fiddling with that is illegal in many parts of the world. IF the device later catches fire and the insurance company finds out it was modified by yours truly, they can deny coverage, and if your neighbor’s house burns along with yours they can sue you etc. etc.
You say dull, I say perfectly judged for the day to day. This plus a sports car for the weekend would be a very nice combo.

There are only two conductors run from the substation to a normal one phase installation. Those are live and neutral. Though the neutral is bonded to ground at the substation through the resistor and is also connected to earth at any and all points on the cable where any work is done it is still neutral. At the house the neutral and ground become separate conductors. The neutral is treated as a live wire when working on the system, as far as I know all utilities treat neutral as another phase for safety reasons.
The saw cuts in both directions, one person pulls, and the other slightly lifts and the saw cuts. then the other person pulls and the opposite person slightly lifts and follows the saw. Each person has a pull stroke and a less strenuous return stroke.
There are people that play with high voltage stuff like Tesla coils, induction heaters etc. Now those know enough to respect high voltage.
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Agreed, the component is under rated from the start. If you look at a datasheet from a 25A SSR from a better company you will find something like de-rating curves which really show that as you move from the ideal conditions (20C temp, infinite heatsink) you should only use a smaller load. It is pretty easy to reach a limit of half the max load in normal conditions.
⢠Calculate how much power you need: Generators are sized based on the power they provide an average home. Go through your home and identify the lights, electronics and appliances you want to run and the watts they consume. That’s simple enough to figure out with lamp or light fixture that takes a 60-watt bulb, and tougher to determine with your refrigerator. Aiello says to look for the data plate found on most appliances. It should tell you the volts and amps. Then do the math: Volts multiplied by amps equals watts. Or go online and look up the specs. Generac also has an online portable-generator sizing calculator you can use as a guide.
Ladies and Gentlemen, I hereby nominate [cyberteque] as the replacement for our recently departed “most interesting man in the world”. Assuming he was, in fact, nearly eaten alive by a feral pig, or trapped under a hang glider under water. Double votes if he was nearly eaten alive by a feral pig who was flying a hang glider upside-down under the water.
This doesn’t make any sense, why not use an extension cord with the 220 already in the house? A 6 or 8 gauge cord for 75 feet should be perfectly fine.
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