As you said yourself, low current. There is good reason to worry about mains power. The most common breaker is 15A, and that is about 15 times what is needed to kill you. It won’t trip right away either, unless it is so old and weak that it needs replacement anyhow.
110/220 is the load rating and 120/240 is what the circuit provides. The voltage could sag as low as 110 or 220 in use.
So, for the assumptions I made here, it’ll cost about the same amount of money out of your pocket to use electricty to propel your Niro and it does to use gasoline. If electric rates are higher than 15 cents/kWh (easily possible, at least here), then it’s more expensive to use the battery. There may good reasons to get the plug-in version of the Niro instead of the regular hybrid version, but saving money doesn’t appear to be one of them.
While no standard is perfect, I have found that knowing the NEC and looking carefully at manufacturer listings and labels can save you time, your customers money, and help keep everyone safe.
I’ve spent four to eight years in apprentice school learning how to plan, install, inspect, and repair electrical products. Don’t insult my intelligence by implying otherwise.
Indeed, I did a HV Course at a functioning power station where once you had isolated an 11kV switchboard you had to grab hold of the bus bars to show the other workers it was safe to carry out their work.
A REAL Fotek is a good brand ….. however some dishonest shops in China are turning out fakes by the thousands ,,,,, I got burnt by a fake Fotek 25A DC SSR for a printer a couple of years ago and the 2nd or 3rd time I used it the MOSFET went up in smoke although nowhere near this spectacularly …. I ended up replacing it wtih a 100A Fotek that I could ascertain was genuine and it’s been working ever since
Hopefully one of these days we’ll go to significantly more DC distribution all over teh place, but I often wonder if I’ll see it in my lifetime. I thought I was imagining things when I was trying to remember if Japan was 50&60, but that’s pretty fascinating.
In Finland pretty much every household is wired with 3x 230V phase, with main fuses between 25-63A. Nominal voltage from phase to ground is 230V and phase to phase 400V. Load is split between phases, so that phase voltages would stay same, usually this is done by grouping different rooms to different phases, commonly 10A 230V per room sockets and lights.
Such an awful practice and terrible idea. I have an EV and would never do this (me being an EE). I decided to make this correctly and I installed dedicated #10 cable from the auxiliary power distribution box to the EV charger as a permanent connection, no plugs no unsafe contraptions, and following all the NEC codes. Those cables you used and the crimp terminals aren’t suited for the current rate. Check them if you don’t believe me. Crimp pressure plug in terminals are rated for around 6 amps of continuous AC current and I hope you used at least 600 A.C. volts insulation cable… Bad, bad idea.
We did go for an L2 charger in our case because we have 2 BEVs and charging them on 1 20 amp L1 circuit wouldn’t cut it. Generally my wife uses the L2 charger for her Leaf while I L1 charge the model 3 and only borrow her L2 connection if I have been too lazy to plug into L1 for a few days. But, if we just had the model 3 L1 alone would be fine. As for the “plugging an L1 charger into a corroded outlet safety risk” some other repliers mention. Well duh. If I plug an L2 charger into a corroded 14-30 or 14:50 outlet there is even more risk. If the 120V outlet is in poor shape $5 in parts at Home Depot can fix that. Any sustained draw electrical equipment can be a hazard if plugged into insufficient infrastructure.
http://www.mikeholt.com/technical.php?id=grounding/unformatted/GroundResistance&type=u&title=Ground%20Resistance%20-%20It%27s%20Not%20What%20You%20Think%20%2812-30-99%29
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